Sapa Trekking in Vietnam (Without Sapa Tours)

Trekking in Sapa, Vietnam and a hill-tribe homestay among the remarkable rice terraces nestles itself firmly at the top of any Vietnam travel itinerary. With verdant rice terraces cascading up mountain vistas, Sapa is easily one of the best places to visit in Vietnam. And since it’s so simple to book and arrange your budget Sapa trekking experience by yourself, why spend more money going through Sapa tour companies?

Before You Go

• Refer to the Vietnam Railways website to buy your train ticket or arrange your Hanoi to Sapa bus
• Read our guide on how to score the cheapest flights
• Check your phone plan to see if you have international data or get a SIM card for Vietnam
• Review our carry-on packing list 
• Learn everything you need to know about traveling through airport security
• Pack the right travel cameras and comfortable travel clothes

Watch our experience trekking in Vietnam to our hill tribe homestay in our Youtube video below:

Trekking in Sapa

Every hill-tribe homestay and Sapa trekking journey (whether arranged by yourself or through Sapa tours) will begin in the northwestern Vietnam town of Sapa (otherwise written as Sa Pa). A quick tumble from the border of China, Sapa, Vietnam is set amidst the Hoang Lien Son mountain range (otherwise known as “the Tonkinese Alps”) that house Fansipan, the highest peak in Vietnam.

Before the 90’s, small size agriculture marked the economic epicenter of Sa Pa. However, it has since been established in Vietnam as a trekking base for Sapa tours, attracting visitors from around the globe gearing to explore the region’s cascading rice terraces and hill-tribe villages.

If you’re wondering, “is Sapa worth visiting?” read along to find the answer, and just why we feel that way.

Also, be sure to refer to our sister Sapa trekking guide, 10 Things you WON’T Expect on Your Sapa Trek, where we expand on some of the surprising (and sometimes shocking) things we encountered while trekking in Sapa!

Note: These photos were all taken on our DJI Phantom (obsessed) and Canon Rebel, but we have since upgraded to the Canon 80D and are in love with it. Make sure to check out our essential cameras for every traveler guide and our traveling with a drone guide for more info.

How to Get to Sapa on Your Own (Without Sapa Tours)

If you want to go trekking in Sapa, Vietnam and experience staying at the home of one of the local hill tribe people in Sapa Valley, there are a couple ways to get there without official tours in Sapa. Most visitors to Sa Pa travel from Hanoi, the hub of transportation for Vietnam’s north (and the site of some of the most amazing Vietnamese food we’ve had!).

You can go from Hanoi to Sapa by train or by bus.

Our companion, Koen, making his way through the landscape of Northern Vietnam

Hanoi to Sapa by Train

Here’s how to get from Hanoi to Sapa by train before you begin trekking in Sapa.

Sapa in Vietnam doesn’t have a railway station, so the closest stop you can get off at is in Lao Cai.

A popular way to get your Sapa trekking tour is with an overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai. If you’re a budget traveler and want to save money by arranging your Sapa trekking in Vietnam on your own, you can buy your train ticket on your own here.

Using the Vietnam Railways site to book your train tickets directly will save you $10-15, versus booking them with an operator of Sapa tours.

With Sapa tours ringing up popularly on many travelers’ Vietnam itinerary, it’s smart to book your tickets online as soon as you can. It’s very possible that they will sell out if you wait until a few days before.

How Long Is the Train From Hanoi to Sapa?

Sapa town doesn’t have its own railway station. Instead, you’ll find the nearest station in Lao Cai, about 40-50 minutes away by car or bus.

The overnight trains from Hanoi—Lao Cai take around 9 hours to complete the trip.

How Much Does the Overnight Train to Sapa Cost?

A one-way ticket from Hanoi to Lao Rai, the nearest train station to Sapa, costs 384,000 VND (about $17.20 USD) in an air-conditioned soft-sleeper cabin.

If visiting Sapa, Vietnam on a budget, you might want to take an overnight train to save money on accommodation. Here are some Vietnam sleeper train tips.

There are two overnight trains from Hanoi—Lao Cai. The SP1 train departs Hanoi at 21:40 and arrives in Lao Cai at 05:35 the next morning, while the SP3 train departs Hanoi at 22:00 and arrives in Lao Cai at 06:00.

READ MORE| Don’t be caught off guard on your trek! Check out our list of 10 Things You WON’T Expect from a Sapa Trek!

How to Get from Lao Cai to Sa Pa

A good price for a taxi ride between Lao Cai and Sa Pa is around 400,000 VND ($18). Minibuses are available to take between Lao Cai and Sapa in Vietnam as well. The minibuses to Sa Pa leave from a large parking lot near the train station, and cost 50,000 VND ($2.20). These minibuses will leave whenever they fill up.

Pros of Taking the Train to Sapa

1. Even 4-person cabins have more privacy than a crowded bus.
2. All trains have a bathroom.
3. The train ride is more stable than bus rides.
4. Some train cars have wifi.

Cons of Taking the Train to Sapa

1. Longer trip than taking the bus.
2. May not be as comfortable as a luxury sleeper bus.
3. If booked through a company, it will cost more than a bus.
4. Doesn’t go directly to Sapa.

Click on the photo above to find cheap flights to Hanoi

Taking the Bus to Sapa from Hanoi

You can also take the bus to Sapa from Hanoi, such as this Hanoi to Sapa bus with comfortable bed seats, blankets, pillows, toilets and even Wifi (just make sure you select the type of seat you prefer!).

Unlike the train, the buses take you directly to Sa Pa, Vietnam, cutting out an extra leg of travel. These buses are relatively comfortable, with seats that recline or lay back fully.

How Long Is the Bus to Sapa?

The ride to Sa Pa takes about 5-6 hours. Buses from Hanoi to Sa Pa leave daily in the morning, afternoon, and evening.

For those visiting Vietnam on a budget, overnight buses are again a great way to save money on one night of accommodation, while also limiting the daytime wasted on transportation.

How Much Does a Bus to Sapa Cost?

There are a variety of bus companies of various repute and comfort you can take before you tour Sapa, with prices ranging from $15-45. Do a bit of online research into whatever company you choose to go with, as some companies are poorly organized and have lower levels of customer service and satisfaction. Sometimes you get what you pay for!

Some buses to Sa Pa have bathrooms (this bus advertises that it DOES have bathrooms) or make rest stops on the way, but others do not have toilets or make stops. Again, research is key!

The cost of buses to Sa Pa is comparable to the cost of booking train tickets by yourself for most companies. If you book train tickets through a travel agency, the train will be more expensive.

You can also choose to take the bus from Sapa to Hanoi going to other direction. We ended up taking the bus from Hanoi to Sapa, and then taking the overnight train on the way back, as we were more easily able to get a ride to Lao Cai on the return trip.

Pros of Taking the Bus to Sapa

1. Takes you directly to Sa Pa.
2. If you travel in the daytime it is a shorter journey than via train.
3. Can be cheaper than booking trains through a company.
4. Some buses have wifi.

Cons of Taking the Bus to Sapa

1. Less privacy than the train.
2. Some buses don’t have bathrooms.
3. Riding a bus through windy roads can cause nausea!

Booking.com

How to Find a Local Hilltribe Guide in Sapa

Before trekking in Sapa, Vietnam (without arranging Sapa tours ahead of time), you’ll need to find a local hilltribe Sapa trekking guide familiar with the landscape, weather changes, terrain, and the most beautiful spots in Sapa Valley.

About Sapa Tours

You can plan on trekking Sapa with a local independent hill tribe guide, or through a Sapa tour company.

A multitude of Sapa tour companies exist that arrange Sapa travel and hill-tribe homestay. If waiting until your arrival to arrange your Sapa tour is not an option, you can look into this Ma Tra and Ta Phin Village Private Trek from Sapa or this Lao Chai and Ta Van Village Trek. However, as we’ve never done these pre-arranged tours in Sapa ourselves, we can only vouch for the self-arranged Sapa tours upon arrival with a local independent guide.

Unfortunately, when working with many companies, there’s little way to know how much care or regard for the ethnic tribes who call Sa Pa home. This means that much of the money you pay for “official” tours in Sapa (as opposed to those offered by independent locals) won’t get back to the tribespeople.

When arranging tours to Sapa, so much is dependent on luck. We met people on our train from Lao Cai back to Hanoi who had pre-booked one of the “official” tours in Sapa and ended up in a tourist trap area. However, we’ve also met people who have gone on official tours in Sapa and had an amazing time that they loved. Unfortunately, unless you’re operating on word of mouth and have someone you know who can vouch for the tours in Sapa you’re looking at, it is a toss up.

Similarly, there’s no way to guarantee that the local independent guides you find on your own to lead tours to Sapa will be amazing either, but I do believe you will be more likely to have an authentic experience, and you can rest assured knowing that the money you’re spending is going directly to the local hill tribes. All I know is that the first woman we spoke to, Mama Shu Shu, was an amazing guide with an INCREDIBLE hill tribe home, and we wouldn’t have had our trekking Sapa experience any other way.

Arrange Your Trekking in Sapa Upon Arrival

To get around these Sapa tour companies, you can easily arrange your own budget Sapa travel and hill-tribe homestay upon arrival in Sa Pa. Arranging your budget trekking in Sapa directly with the people who you will stay with and guide you on your trek leads to a more fulfilling and authentic experience. You’ll likely get taken to a far more beautiful and secluded location, and you will save you money too.

Where to Find Your Sapa Guide

We highly recommend you tour Sapa with a local independent hill tribe guide.

You can arranging your local hill tribe guide where most buses to Sapa, Vietnam drop off their passengers off: the Sa Pa Market.

The market and its surroundings are full of enterprising tribespeople eager to guide you to their home. Arranging trekking in Sapa by yourself is as simple as walking around the market until you find a price and trekking distance that suits your fancy. Just make sure to find a guide with a personality that meshes well with yours.

You should have no problem finding someone to host you at their home in Sapa, but, of course, there’s always a chance that something could happen if you have the luxury of time to allow it. Perhaps you have your heart set on one specific host and have to wait a day—in an event like this, make sure to have an idea of Sapa hotels you could stay at while you get your trip sorted.

For us, however, we didn’t have the luxury of time to wait around, and we were able to talk to a few different hosts at the Sa Pa Market before we settled on one women that we really vibed with!

Cost of Trekking in Sapa with Local Guide

A decent price to tour Sapa with a 2 day/1 night Sapa homestay with a 10+km trek to the village should be between $20-30 per person.

If someone quotes you a higher price, you can negotiate! Simply walk away and they will probably agree to a lower price. If not, it’s quick and easy to find someone else who can offer a more budget-friendly price. This price to tour Sapa should include a meal on the trek and meals while at the Sapa homestay.

The price will not include a motorbike/taxi ride back to Sa Pa town at the end of the trek.

Be warned: a motorbike ride in the rain is definitely not recommended, as the roads are roughly paved at best and very prone to flooding.

What to Bring for Sapa Trekking

When preparing for Vietnam hiking in Sapa, keep in mind the weather can be very humid and rain is very likely.

Raincoat/poncho: A definite must any time of the year. We like:

• Columbia Men’s Watertight II Front-Zip Hooded Rain Jacket
• Columbia Women’s Switchback II Jacket
• Mudder Portable Raincoat Rain Poncho with Hoods and Sleeves

Extra clothes: Go for a quick-drying, breathable stretch material that you can layer!  The weather in Sa Pa is notorious for rapidly changing, so layers are a wonderful asset on your Vietnam hike. It can be sunny and warm one minute and foggy and pouring rain the next. We like:

• Singbring Men’s Outdoor Quick Dry Hiking Shorts
• Columbia Men’s Meeker Peak Short-Sleeve Crew T-Shirt
• Opna Women’s Racerback Tank Tops Moisture Wicking Shirt
• UDIY Women’s Long Sleeve Zip Active Sports Jacket Top
• Yana Women’s 2 in 1 Running Tights with Front and Back Water Resistant Pockets

A Waterproof Bag to store extra clothes and electronics: You don’t want your clothes and valuables to get soaked if it starts to rain on your Vietnam hike.We like:

• Dry Bag by ECOdept – Waterproof Lightweight Large Sack. They come in 3 different sizes to suit your needs!

Rain cover for backpack: A rain cover for your backpack when hiking in Vietnam will give you peace of mind if caught in rainy weather. Our Think Tank Airport Helipak came with a seam-sealed rain cover that made our bag virtually waterproof.

• Think Tank makes durable, water-resistant travel-friendly camera and other electronic bags that are perfect for a Sapa trek. For more information, make sure to read about our experience with a Think Tank camera bag on our Vietnam backpacking trip.

Long socks: Prepare for leeches on your Vietnam hike! Our guides were even wearing rain boots to protect against the leeches. We like:

• Men’s Thick Micro Crew Trekking Socks
• Women’s Full Cushion Hiking Crew Socks
• You may also want to consider anti-leech socks, though we didn’t use any ourselves, we sure wish we did

Good walking/hiking shoes: Hiking in Vietnam requires good shoes. The paths you will be trekking on are narrow, sometimes steep and rocky, and can be very muddy depending on the weather. We like:

• Columbia Men’s Newton Ridge Plus II WP Hiking Boot
• Columbia Women’s Newton Ridge Plus Hiking Boot

Snacks, water: These may be available for purchase while trekking, but you don’t want to be caught without water or snacks if you really need them.

• We always bring our Collapsible Canteens with us everywhere we go, as well as the Survivor Filter straw for on-the-go water filtering.

Bug repellent: Your hill-tribe homestay may have mosquito nets, but it also will likely not have screens in the windows (if there are any windows at all) or will be open to the outside, so it’s best to be prepared when trekking in Vietnam. Also, beware of leeches if it’s raining on the trek!We like:

• DEET mosquito repellent
• And for natural protection against leeches, you might want to try eucalyptus oil
• In case you do get any leeches, you’ll also want to have a Travel First Aid Kit

Hand Sanitizer and Wipes: The bathroom situation when trekking Vietnam is unpredictable, and you’ll want to be prepared! You may also need some wipes to clean yourself off of any mud and…well…bull poop! We like:

• Purell Travel Size Hand Sanitizer
• Flushable wipes for travel

A walking stick: If you don’t have one, perhaps your guide will be kind enough to provide a bamboo one for you.

Toys/other trinkets to give to village children (Do not give the children money when trekking Vietnam—the children will only get a small cut of what you give, and they’ll be kept out of school as long as they’re still able to turn a profit).

Planning a Vietnam trip? Make use of this helpful Hang Son Doong – The World’s Largest Cave guide!

Sapa leeches left their marks on us

Learn more about Backpacking in Vietnam.

How to Get Back to Hanoi from Sa Pa

It’s just as simple to leave Sapa, Vietnam as it is to get there.

Buses and minibuses leave to Lao Cai from the stone church in the middle of town. Ask the drivers what time they are leaving (every 30 minutes- 1 hour until 18:30-19:00).

Public buses also leave to Lao Cai from this church, between 6:00 AM and 18:30 PM (28,000 VND).

Taxis are also readily available too (around 400,000 VND). We really lucked out and found a taxi driver who just happened to be returning home to Lao Cai for the night and ready to fill the cab for any price, which for our group of four, turned out to be 100,000 VND total (about $4.48 USD). Unfortunately, that kind of luck can’t be counted on!

If you booked a round-trip bus ticket to and from Sapa, leaving is as easy as getting back on the bus. Make sure you check where the bus will pick you up, as it could be from somewhere different than where it dropped you off.

Heading to Vietnam? Check out these thoughts on Vietnam before your trip!

Is Sapa Worth Visiting?

Without a doubt. Our time trekking in Sapa, Vietnam and staying at the homes of Mama Shu Shu, our hill tribe guide, was hands down our favorite Vietnam travel activity. Just look at our pictures and watch our Sapa vlogs and you’ll see why our Vietnam hiking experience in the rice terraces was so magical!

Still, be sure to refer to our companion guide, 10 Things you WON’T Expect on Your Sapa Trek, to know what you just might encounter on your Sapa trek. You might be surprised!

Our Belgian companion, Ruth, on the Sapa trek

What to Do in Sapa After Your Trek

Looking for what to do in Sapa after your trek? If you have more time on your hands and want more of a taste of hiking Vietnam, you might want to hang around Sapa before or after tour hill-tribe homestay so you can experience some of the other offerings of the area. For example, this Cat Cat Village Tour brings you to visit Sapa’s oldest Black H’Mong community as well as the Cat Cat Waterfall. You’ll get the chance to see the traditional handicrafts of the community, and the tour includes lunch.

There are some other things to do in Sapa you might consider.

Alternatively, this Love and Silver Waterfalls Private Day Tour takes you on a trek to see some gorgeous waterfalls hidden in the jungle. You’ll also get to check out a view of Fansipan, the highest mountain in the Indochinese Peninsula, from the Ton Station, and lunch is included as well.

If you’d prefer a different experience for your Sapa itinerary, you can check out this Bac Ha Market and Ban Pho Village Day Tour to get the chance to see the hustle and bustle of villagers of all local tribal ethnicities throughout this lively market. The road to Bac Ha is a stunning sight, with lush green meadows and deep valleys, making it one of the beautiful scenic things to do in Sapa. The tour also includes lunch.

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Do you have any stories about arranging a budget Sapa trek and hill-tribe homestay in Vietnam?

Tell us about it here!